Shawl Cardi - Finishing - Part 7


I always have mixed feeling when a personal project comes to an end. Sure I like having a brand new cardigan/pullover/dress that I made myself, but I do miss the fun of having an ongoing project that I can creatively take anywhere I want, where I dream up a fun variation or discover and practice a new technique.

The finishing of Kwik Sew 3916 was easy. The pattern calls for a 4-inch hem allowance at the cuff, to allow for roll up. In order to cut down on bulk I allowed 2 1/2 inches fashion fabric plus 1 1/2 inches of facing fabric (I used a light weight black rayon jersey from stash.) for the hem allowance.  When the sleeves are rolled up, the facing stays hidden on the inside. If you check out the original pattern you can see I made my version of the cardigan  a little shorter.I think it will fit into my wardrobe better this way. The rayon jersey that I used for the hem allowance on the cuffs was also used for a hem facing at the bottom of the cardigan, the same way I'd use a hem facing with any heavy fabric. And that was it! The picture below shows the jacket opened. You can see the hem tucked into the Front Band, which now encases the entire front edge.

Modifying a commercial pattern for sweater knit fabric doesn't need to be nearly as complex as I've made it. But since I had a request to post a step-by-step modifications on how I would do it, I've tried not to leave too much out. Please note that it really isn't necessary to thread trace and you don't need to bind all seams. If the fabric isn't heavy, you don't have to use hem facing. I think I would have been perfectly happy following the instructions for Kwik Sew 3916, pretty much as written, had I used a lighter weight sweater knit. The Kwik Sew pattern instructions even offered seam finishing instructions (under the "Sewing Procedures" section) that would be quite appropriate for a lighter weight sweater knit fabric. In the end I made the cardigan I wanted, and I'm very happy!

Previous parts of this series on modifying Kwik Sew 3916 for a sweater knit fabric can be found here:
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If you happen to be reading this on Saturday, December 22, or Sunday, December 23, 2014, and happen to be in New York City or northern New Jersey, you're invited to our Holiday Open House at Of Hand, Spirit & Earth Studio! Scarves, wraps, and the unique SilkWire Jewelry by Jacquie Bird. (We're open on other days by appointment only.) Can't wait to see you! 

O!
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Disclosure: I received Kwik Sew 3916 for free with a coupon I received at a McCall Pattern Company event.

Shawl Cardi - Attaching the Front Band - Part 6

The shawl collar-to-be, click to enlarge. Orange thread tracing is still there....

O, you didn't think I was done already, did you? I'm the person who attached a simple sweater cuff in eleven easy steps. Yes, eleven. And just because all that's left to complete on Kwik Sew K3916 is the Front Band and the hems, it doesn't mean there's nothing left to tweak.

Yes, I was trying to sew this pattern as it was written, making modifications only when needed for the sweater knit I'm using. My next modification really isn't needed. It will just make this shawl collared cardigan prettier on the inside. My previous steps and modifications can be found here:
The Front Band, the part that becomes the shawl collar, is composed of two pieces that are attached center back at the neck. The long, lengthwise folded fabric is then supposed to be attached along the edges of the cardigan front opening and along the front and back neckline edges as a band. (I guess that's why it's called "Front Band"!) Folded over one more time, it becomes the shawl collar. 

I've decided it might look nicer on the inside of the cardigan if I actually encase the raw front and neck edges of the cardigan with the Front Band piece. In the picture above, the right hand side of the picture shows the Front Band folded almost as it will appear on the cardigan. I've opened up the other side (halfway) to show my finished (stretchy Hong Kong technique) edge that will be on the inside of the sweater.

Here's the Front Band again, this time with the raw front edge of the cardigan sandwiched between the two sides of the "Front Band".

The raw edges of the Front Band were sewn to the raw edges of the Front and neckline right sides together. Now I'll use a blind stitch to sew Front Band on the inside of the cardigan.

Despite this crazy inside pic, the cardigan is beginning to take shape! The end is near. And I really mean it this time. Really.

O!
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Shawl Cardi Series
Disclosure: I received Kwik Sew 3916 for free with a coupon I received at a McCall Pattern Company event.