Maggie's Sweater Knit Shawl - Part 1

I'm happy to introduce Maggie, a contributor to the Crafting Fashion blog. Though she's an experienced sewer, Maggie is very new to sweater knits. Maggie takes us from her initial thoughts and research on this project (below) to her step-by-step modifications for sewing her shawl in Westerly sweater knit (next post).
O!


Going into writing this blog post I had not ever worked with a sweater knit and my experience working with lighter weight jersey knit was limited. I had made a few small projects here and there with old t-shirts and discount knits, and never even considered sewing with a sweater knit. So, for this first project I was very excited to learn something new and get to sew with some of the gorgeous fabric in the O! Jolly! Shop. I’ll admit I was a little intimidated and learning to work with my fabric was challenging, but it was also fun and I found lots of resources on this blog to help me work through it. Ultimately I walked away with a new found confidence for sewing with sweater knits and can’t wait to tackle my next project.

Before I started my shawl project, I decided to practice on a thrift store sweater and make matching beanies for me and the forthcoming wee one. This helped me get a feel for cutting and sewing sweater knits, and it took the pressure off making a mistake with my pretty fabric. I wrote a tutorial that you can find here at Miss Maggie Makes. I highly recommend experimenting with an old sweater if you are new to sewing with sweater knits. It will give you a feel for your machine and sweater knit fabric, and if you make a fatal mistake you're only out a few dollars.

My next step was to pick a pattern. I decided to start with a lovely shawl pattern Simplicity 1098 [affiliate link], option C, that Olgalyn suggested as a good starter project. The pattern was written for fleece, but was very simple (just 3 pieces) and easy to modify for a sweater knit. I also happen to be about 6 months pregnant, and my body seems to change daily. I have literally worn a shirt one day, put in in the wash and when I put it back on it no longer fits over my belly. While this is something my husband and I get a huge kick out of, it also makes it hard to plan my wardrobe. So, making something that will accommodate my body over the next few months, keep me warm and help me layer my outfits (third trimester hot flashes are no joke!) was right on target. An added bonus is that I used the Westerly wool rib in natural white and it is so soft and gorgeous. Just the kind of thing I need to feel pretty and cuddly to get me through the cold, gray winter months. And for when the little one is here, it will be lovely to drape over us while she is in her carrier. I already see a few more of these shawls in our future.

Before I started cutting my fabric, I decided I needed to do some research. I knew I needed information on handling my fabric and what the best stitches and finishes to use would be. In the process I also discovered that I would need to use an interfacing for my seams to keep my fabric from stretching and moving as I sewed.

To start, I read through the Crafting Fashion pages Quick Tips and Sewing a Sweater. I also found these blog posts very helpful:

[To be continued...]

Maggie


Maggie is a sewer and blogger living in North Carolina. She has known how to sew for as long as she can remember but admits to not being very good at it until just a few years ago. Maggie continues to learn something new every time she sits at her machine. Owner of UpSeam by Maggie, where she make handbags and wallets from upcycled fabrics and notions, Maggie also loves to share her knowledge and projects with others on her blog Miss Maggie Makes.


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Last update 22Apr2016

Westerly Pullover


There's not a lot new to say about this sweater that hasn't been mentioned in Bringing in the New, except of course, that it's finished. And I made the decision to go with a simple hem instead of the split bands at the bottom.

The pattern, Burda Pullover 11/2012 #128, is actually the first Burda pattern I've ever used (though I've sewn a Burda-inspired garment.) The pattern is a casual pullover, with a rounded v-neck, slightly dropped shoulders, and a side split hem band. But I made a few changes. 

My viable substitute for iron-on Vilene bias tape (mentioned in the Burda pattern, but oh so difficult to find in the US) was a folded strip of soft black mesh. This served as a hem tape for my neckline. (Next time I'll be sure to have good old knit stay tape on hand.) And instead of hand sewing the neckline, I decided to machine stitch the neckline. I rarely machine stitch any type of hem! But after I turned under and steamed the taped neck edge, I sewed a narrow zigzag from the right side. I know, not really revolutionary, but positively radical for me. Then, I think because I wanted more practice with my “new" technique, I did the hem at the bottom of the sweater the same way.

I think this would be an excellent pattern for a beginner getting used to working with sweater knits. This sweater was relatively quick and easy with hemming and simple bands at the cuff. I love it because it's so comfortable.


The slightly fulled Westerly fabric played nicely with a 3-step zigzag finishing on the seam allowances. Properly prepped wool is good that way. Remember if fulling wool, practice on a swatch first. Please see previous comments on this subject.

Other than making the original split hem band, I don't think that I'd make any other changes to the pattern next time. 

But I may try a different substitute for Vilene bias tape -- either the earlier mentioned knit stay tape. Or this.  

Last Saturday I bought a couple yards at Pacific Trimming. Unfortunately it's not on their website, and I should have asked more about it while I was there. Though it looks like some type of edge tape or binding, it's actually a very lightweight elastic. It was in same section as the transparent elastic. If you know what this elastic is usually used for, please let me know. I'm going to try it as a hem tape with some scraps, attaching it to the edge with a lapped seam. I'm also pretty sure it would work well with shoulder seams. We'll see how it goes. 

O!
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Last update 20January2016

Danielle's Cut and Sew Cable Knit Hoodie

I'm so pleased to introduce this post from one of Crafting Fashion's contributors, Danielle Pierce. Danielle is a fashion designer and a real sewing pro. She reacquaints herself with sweater knits with this blanket-to-hoodie project. 
O!


What better way to start off the New Year than with a new sewing project. Today it’s a sweater hoodie, perfect for the coming winter (at least for us in Nashville). I was inspired by the blanket to coat idea, and O! Jolly!’s irresistibly cozy cable knit fabric panels. This is my first sweater of the year and I chose to do a spin on a full zip hoodie.  I used a pattern for this project, Kwik Sew 3678 [Amazon affiliate link]. It includes patterns for 2 styles of jacket -- one with and one without a hood, as well as a pair of pants. Of course, the designer in me had to change things up a bit. I skipped the pockets on the front and added some length in order for the finished sweater to cover my seat.  A longer length is perfect for wearing over leggings.  This pattern is simple and can be altered a bit if you want to carve out a little more curve at the waistline, as I did.

I’ve worked with some sweater knits before, but I still revisited several posts on this blog for a refresher course before sewing. I brushed up on these topics:


Before cutting, I had to decide which size to make. I was making this for myself, and I’m in between sizes, so I decided to make the smaller of the two because of the stretch in the fabric. This sweater knit has alternating single and double cables with some open knit/loose columns in between, so there is a good amount of stretch. (Note: The finished product was a bit bigger than I planned, due to the “boxiness” of the design and the amount of stretch in the fabric.)


After cutting and before sewing, I basted along the edge of the cut pattern pieces in order to stabilize the pieces and prevent runs and unraveling. However, I found that this stretched out the edges of my pieces. So, instead of basting or staystitching around all of my pattern pieces, I opted to just be SUPER careful when handling them to ensure the pieces did not stretch out of shape when sewing.

When sewing the sweater/jacket/hoodie, I mostly used the pattern as a cutting guide. I did not construct the garment at all in the way the pattern instructed.  For example, the pattern called for a “shirt” sleeve, where you would stitch the shoulders of the front and back pieces together first and then stitch the sleeve cap to the armhole before sewing the bodice’s side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeve in one long, continuous seam.  I instead set in the sleeve after sewing up the shoulders and sides of my bodice.

Another deviation I made was to the hemming of the hood, sleeves and body. To preserve the shape of these hems, I stitched 3/8” elastic (what I always have on-hand) along the raw edges. Instead of a double turned hem as suggested by the pattern, I turned them under once and stitched in place by sewing along the outer edge of the elastic. In addition to stabilizing the shape and preventing the dreaded “stretch out”, this also hid the raw edges of my sweater knit for a nice, clean finish on the inside.

Overall, this was a pleasant project for getting reacquainted with sewing sweater knits. One after thought is whether or not I should have left the zipper exposed or hidden it. I think I like it exposed.  Until next time….

Danielle


Danielle Pierce, a fashion designer from Memphis, Tennessee, is also a skilled pattern maker and technical designer. Her clothing line, DanĂ¡lia by DP, specializes in resort wear for women. When not working on her own projects, Danielle assists other emerging fashion designers with production of their fashion lines. Danielle is currently preparing to launch her own blog and website. In the meantime, see some of Danielle's work here.
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Last update 22Apr2016

Bringing in the New

We may already be in the second week of 2016, but it's never too late to wish a Happy New Year to all! I hope you've enjoyed the holiday season and are refreshed and inspired for the new. This is my very first post of 2016, and I have a first peek at a new sweater.



I happen to love charcoal grey. This first sweater of the New Year is the first item I've made with Westerly sweater knit. That's the fabric that's been knitted with the wonderful natural (as in not dyed) wool from the Imperial Stock Ranch. I've used Burda Pullover 11/2012 #128 pattern with no modifications so far. Truth be told, it's not actually finished. I still can't decide whether I want the split hem band or just a plain hem. I've been trying on the sweater every day for the past few days trying to make that decision. :/

One of the decisions I did make about the sweater that I'm quite happy with is that I decided to full the fabric. While prepping the fabric with a wash by hand, I agitated the wool with my hand just a little bit, as I'd done with my test swatch. (Warning:  Don't try this at home unless you test with a swatch first.) The fabric fulled beautifully, keeping stitch definition intact, while producing a fuzzier, less open, and richer fabric. Second warning:  Some natural wools seem to turn to felt at the blink of an eye, so if you ever want to give fulling a try, I repeat, be sure to test your method first on a swatch.

More "New" on the Blog Too!

Over the next few weeks, I'll be introducing you to a couple of new contributors to the Crafting Fashion blog. They'll be cutting and sewing and writing about what they make with sweater knits. I'm so fortunate to be working with these smart and creative ladies. I think you'll like reading about the fashion they create, each from her own unique perspective.

Sincerest wishes for peace, health, and happiness in 2016. May all your spools of thread and cones of yarn be full.

O!