I always have mixed feeling when a personal project comes to an end. Sure I like having a brand new cardigan/pullover/dress that I made myself, but I do miss the fun of having an ongoing project that I can creatively take anywhere I want, where I dream up a fun variation or discover and practice a new technique.
The finishing of Kwik Sew 3916 was easy. The pattern calls for a 4-inch hem allowance at the cuff, to allow for roll up. In order to cut down on bulk I allowed 2 1/2 inches fashion fabric plus 1 1/2 inches of facing fabric (I used a light weight black rayon jersey from stash.) for the hem allowance. When the sleeves are rolled up, the facing stays hidden on the inside. If you check out the original pattern you can see I made my version of the cardigan a little shorter.I think it will fit into my wardrobe better this way. The rayon jersey that I used for the hem allowance on the cuffs was also used for a hem facing at the bottom of the cardigan, the same way I'd use a hem facing with any heavy fabric. And that was it! The picture below shows the jacket opened. You can see the hem tucked into the Front Band, which now encases the entire front edge.
Modifying a commercial pattern for sweater knit fabric doesn't need to be nearly as complex as I've made it. But since I had a request to post a step-by-step modifications on how I would do it, I've tried not to leave too much out. Please note that it really isn't necessary to thread trace and you don't need to bind all seams. If the fabric isn't heavy, you don't have to use hem facing. I think I would have been perfectly happy following the instructions for Kwik Sew 3916, pretty much as written, had I used a lighter weight sweater knit. The Kwik Sew pattern instructions even offered seam finishing instructions (under the "Sewing Procedures" section) that would be quite appropriate for a lighter weight sweater knit fabric. In the end I made the cardigan I wanted, and I'm very happy!
Previous parts of this series on modifying Kwik Sew 3916 for a sweater knit fabric can be found here:
- Shawl Cardi - Choosing the Fabric - Part 1
- Shawl Cardi - Before Cutting the Fabric - Part 2
- Shawl Cardi - Tracing, Tracing, Tracing - Part 3
- Shawl Cardi - Steaming and Seaming - Part 4
- Shawl Cardi - Side Seams and Bulk - Part 5
- Shawl Cardi - Attaching the Front Band - Part 6
If you happen to be reading this on Saturday, December 22, or Sunday, December 23, 2014, and happen to be in New York City or northern New Jersey, you're invited to our Holiday Open House at Of Hand, Spirit & Earth Studio! Scarves, wraps, and the unique SilkWire Jewelry by Jacquie Bird. (We're open on other days by appointment only.) Can't wait to see you!
___Disclosure: I received Kwik Sew 3916 for free with a coupon I received at a McCall Pattern Company event.