Cutting and Sewing a Brightly Sweater

Remember the Brightly fabric I started cutting and sewing a few weeks ago? The clingy rib cotton fabric (edited 5/2015 - no longer available in the shop) didn't work for the sweater/tunic as I had imagined. Drop shoulders were originally planned. Once I tried the sweater on, I knew I'd have to do a little fixing. And so I did. And now I'm happy.

First I unpicked the sleeves on the sweater. Fortunately I had sewn them with the sewing machine and not the serger.

Then I drafted templates for both the new sleeve head and the new armholes on the bodice. I don't usually include seam allowances in my patterns, but it was entirely necessary for what I was about to do. (The part of the tunic that was still intact had the seam allowances I had added while cutting.)

I then re-cut the sleeves and top of the bodice using my templates and lots of pins. Next I set in the new sleeves with pins, sewed the sleeves in, and finished all raw edges. 

The tunic no longer looks lumpy about the shoulders. It has both drape and cling, and it's a sweater that's lightweight enough for summer. So I didn't get it done in time for the party... it's finished now, and there's lots of summer ahead.

O!

A Stretchy Hong Kong Finish for Sweater Knits

Updated. Click if not automatically sent to updated article.

Choosing the Right Pattern for the Fabric

Fabric available here

This is my future sweater, arranged theatrically in bright light. In real life it's the color of the egg yolks from chickens that eat marigold seeds. These are the first set of photos where I really tried to capture the true color.

Last week I decided to use my new fabric for a sweater style I hadn't sewn lately, a sweater with drop shoulders. I love the slouchy drop shouldered look for casual days. I haven't made one recently mostly because set-in sleeves are a neater look, and I've needed neat.

You may have noticed on this blog that I always say to begin a project with a fabric you love. But there's more to it than that. (There always is, isn't there?) As most of us know, the fabric must be suitable for the pattern you want to sew. (That's why all the sewing patterns have their “suggested fabrics” section.) This time, I wasn't using a commercial pattern. I was simply armed with the measurements for a group of rectangles that had worked perfectly as a pattern for a drop shoulder sweater in the past.

I knew I was taking a chance with this somewhat clingy rib knit fabric. And when I had completed sewing the sweater and tried it on, I knew it wasn't going to work they way I wanted. Fortunately, I took precautions. That is, I didn't use my serger on this one. It'll be easy to “unsew” the sleeves. I'll then cut the armholes and sleeve heads for set in sleeves or maybe just a slight drop shoulder. The sleeve length may not be quite as I had originally planned, but I'll live with it.

One thing I do love about the sweater so far is the boat neck.  Not only do I like the fit and the line, but I like the way I finished the neck. I used a Hong Kong finish on the edges, modified for major stretch. (It has to go over my head.) Then I top stitched it down. Here it is pulled open for you to see.

I love the color and feel of this fabric, and I can't wait until I get the chance to get back to this sweater. I hope it happens this week.

To be continued...